TRABZON
Trabzon has an exciting location, landed on a hill facing the sea, with lush green mountains behind. Once the center of the empire founded in 1204 by Alexius Comnenus, grandson of a Byzantine ruler, the city was famed for its golden columns and shining mosaics. Today's Trabzon seems far raised from that imperial past: the city is bustling and improved, with a busy port, crowded roads, and seemingly little to recognize it from many other provincial Turkish towns. It only takes a little digging, although, to get under the modern surface. Byzantine-era churches, such as the lovely Aya Sofya, a petite version of the similarly named church in Istanbul, can be found not far from convenient apartment buildings. Meanwhile, the city's old town with its Ottoman-era houses, pedestrian-only streets, and active bazaar are a nice break from the concrete and crowds.