Izmir Guide

IZMIR

At first sight, Turkey’s third-largest city (formerly known as Smyrna) may seem new and harsh—even the nice setting, between the Gulf of İzmir and the hills, doesn’t soften some of the starkness of industrial districts and sitting concrete suburbs. Give a few days here, although, either on your way to other parts of the South Aegean, or as a home for visiting Ephesus and the neighboring area, and you’ll see an extremely pleasant, growing city with 7,000 years of history, and much to occupy the modern passenger. The key is to make a shortcut for the waterfront. An attractively renovated ramble known as the Kordon follows the Gulf of Smyrna for approximately 3 km (2 miles), chockablock with cafés and restaurants its whole length. A short walk inland, a refreshing wealth of monuments include the Kemeraltı outdoor bazaar and a selection of excellent museums, while the ancient Kadifekale citadel crowns a hill of the same name.

The waterside Konak area is at the heart of İzmir life, with shops, restaurants, and clubs that are always moving farther afield along the waterfront into the narrow lanes of the old Alsancak and Passport neighborhoods. You can take the look of a walk along Passport pier; past are stored customs house already built by Gustave Eiffel or on the Asansör (Elevator). An early-20th-century relic-turned-gourmet-restaurant (also called Asansör) that relates the slopes of Karataş, a Jewish enclave that is one more piece of this metropolitan city that will delight you with its richness. The relaxed, mostly residential neighborhood of Karşıyaka is a delightful ferry ride across the harbor.